Kitchen Confidential

dane fernandes, executive chef at The St. Regis mumbai, discusses his culinary heroes, his grandfather’s hay-smoked mackerel, and why chefs should go easy on the truffle oil


Words by DAMON SYSON


Born and raised in the coastal Indian state of Goa, Dane Fernandes was steeped in great cuisine from an early age. “Goa is a former Portuguese colony so it’s famous for its fusion of cooking styles," he explains. “The use of vinegar, pork and fish is typically Goan, and there’s a real passion for fresh seasonal ingredients." Having moved to Mumbai in his late teens, Fernandes is now at the helm of one of India’s most prestigious hospitality operations. As Executive Chef at The St. Regis Mumbai, he oversees seven restaurants, showcasing a variety of international themes, as well as running a vast banqueting operation. All this, and he’s still only 30 years old.

What are your first food memories from childhood?

My grandparents were farmers so we always had the freshest milk, eggs and meat, as well as the catch of the day, which my grandfather would cook in the traditional Goan way. He would take a mackerel, put a chili inside it, wrap it in some hay and light up the hay. Once it has cooked for a while, you just dust off the hay and the mackerel’s ready to be eaten. Delicious.

Who taught you to cook?

I come from a family where every meal was prepared with love and care. As a child, I would spend a lot of time in the kitchen with my grandmother and my mother. They really shaped my style of cooking.

Who are your culinary heroes?

Ferran Adrià in Spain, Alex Atala in Brazil and Magnus Nilsson in Sweden. Ferran for his amazing innovations with molecular cuisine, Alex and Magnus because of the way they use their traditional native cuisine and techniques in their cooking. They’ve all been a real inspiration to me.

How would you describe your style of cooking?

I come from a family where every meal was prepared with love and care. As a child, I would spend a lot of time in the kitchen with my grandmother and my mother. They really shaped my style of cooking.

Who are your culinary heroes?

Ferran Adrià in Spain, Alex Atala in Brazil and Magnus Nilsson in Sweden. Ferran for his amazing innovations with molecular cuisine, Alex and Magnus because of the way they use their traditional native cuisine and techniques in their cooking. They’ve all been a real inspiration to me.

How would you describe your style of cooking?

My mantra is: do simple things right. I don’t experiment too heavily because I believe in getting the maximum flavor out of each individual ingredient.

How do you stay ahead in the fast-moving world of international cuisine?

I travel a lot studying culinary trends, but what I’ve realized is that wherever you are, serving great food is always down to the quality of ingredients.


What’s the best meal you’ve ever eaten?

The one that really stands out in my memory was at El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain. The restaurant is run by three brothers: one is the pastry chef, one the sommelier and the other the head chef. The creativity and flair they showed with every dish they brought to the table was impeccable.

What do you eat when you’re home alone?

My go-to comfort food is eggs and chouriço, Goa’s native sausage.

Which of the dishes you’ve created are you most proud of?

Hay-smoked mackerel recheado is close to my heart because it represents my home culture. Recheado is a sauce that uses Goan toddy [coconut] vinegar, chillies and spices. We serve it with a fennel and avocado salad.

Are there any foods or types of cooking you think are overrated?

Truffle oil. A lot of chefs have gone overboard with it. I’m not saying I don’t have it on my menu but I think it should be used carefully.

Is there a meal that reminds you of home?

Fish curry with red Goan rice is something I always miss.

Which restaurant in the world would you most love to visit?

D.O.M. – Alex Atala’s restaurant in São Paulo, Brazil – is definitely on my bucket list. I want to discover what Amazonian cuisine is all about.

What has been the most memorable moment of your career?

Last year I was awarded Marriot International’s “Rising Star for Asia Pacific." It was a huge honor – something I’ll cherish for the rest of my life.

What’s on your kitchen playlist?

Deep House. It’s good to work with a bit of a thump around you. We chefs work such long hours, you need something to keep you up and running.